But how often do you stop to think or ask where the fish inside that crisp, crunchy and oh-so-moreish batter has come from or how it was caught? When Cornwall Food And Drink’s Ruth Huxley investigated this topic a few years ago, the answer was invariably that for a number of reasons the fish and chip shop staple was frozen Icelandic cod, even here in a county surrounded by sea, where fishing is such an important part of the economy. Happily, that’s beginning to change, thanks to some pioneering fish fryers who see things in a different light. One of those is Harbour Lights in Falmouth. Determined to introduce customers to a broader range of seafood and to make better use of the Cornish fish on his doorstep, owner Pete Fraser has created a series of initiatives which, in just three years, have increased eight-fold the amount of local fish he uses. Supporting sustainable fishing methods is part of the ambition too, and a first step was to pledge, as long ago as 2006, that all the fish on the menu would be fully researched to be sure of where and how the fish was sourced. In doing so, Harbour Lights became one of the first fish and chip restaurants in Cornwall where all cod, haddock and plaice is MSC certified. Introducing a specials board proved the perfect and very simple way to showcase the variety of the Cornish catch and work hand-in-hand with the fishermen. Every day, according to what is available, four or five fresh Cornish species are promoted as the “fish of the day” and this is popular with both locals and visitors. For the locals, it’s regarded as a way of supporting their own community, while for the many visitors it meets a desire to indulge in all things Cornish. In fact at Harbour Lights it really can be a 100% Cornish experience alongside the Cornish fish options, the chips are always made from Cornish potatoes and Cornish drinks are available too.
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